GA Benton

The signature mural of a woman in a lifeboat amid choppy waves had been altered on my recent visits to Strongwater Food & Spirits.

In late February, I noticed that the face in the mural – a reproduction of an old portrait of Grace Darling (she famously helped shipwrecked people in the 1800s) – was wearing a pandemic-added mask. When I came back in mid-March, Grace’s covering had been eradicated.

Amusing variations like that demonstrate Strongwater’s considerable appeal: It can embrace change while also commemorating the past.

Occupying a fashionably old-fashioned structure erected in 1910 in a neighborhood with a flooding history of “strong waters,” this hip and arty Franklinton establishment is built upon the vintage bones of a well-preserved former industrial and office space. Seating in the moderate-sized casual eatery is even available in semi-private old office rooms.

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