Burgers and I go way back. All the way back to Minute Man Hamburgers, which was conveniently located adjacent to Waltrip High School. The likelihood of those burgers being consumed in the Greer household immediately following Sunday church services was as certain as potholes on Westheimer. It was a given. We had just enough time to bring them home and set up the TV trays for Bonanza.
So anytime new burger options appear on the local food scene, I have no choice but to sample their product and provide invaluable feedback to you, dear Leader reader. Thus, my burger radar was on high alert when Peaky Grinders arrived in Railway Heights.
Peaky Grinders is located in a pleasant, marketplace-type setting. The process was pretty streamlined; you place your order and get a text when it’s ready.
We were met at the counter with some apathy, but hey, we were here primarily for the food. It’s a basic menu which is sort of expected at a burger joint and the drinks are limited to
Mexican coke and Dublin sodas.
Let’s start with the frito pie. They use the same meat blend as their burger, which combines chuck and brisket. The fritos still had a nice crunch to them. The chili was topped with an appropriately gooey American cheese and fresh white onions were generously sprinkled atop. It was super enjoyable.
Upon the first bite, the fries seemed uninspired but that didn’t stop us from eating them. It may have something to do with the beef fat they are fried in, or the addictive Sir Kensington’s ketchup.
Sadly, neither of us cared for the onion rings. They had a slightly sweet batter, but just didn’t hit the mark.
Can a hot dog be described as “flamboyant”? If so, their Street Dog fits the bill. It is bacon-wrapped and loaded with duck fat onions, roasted red pepper aioli, pickled jalapenos, house pickles, shredded cheese and… what did I leave out? … oh yes, a giant, beefy dog wedged somewhere in the substructure atop a potato bread bun. The dog
itself had just the right “snap” with a savory flavor from that beef blend.
The only quibble was that it was just too much stuff. We agreed that we could have done without the aioli and would have instead preferred simply a touch of mustard. They do have other dog options that would accomplish this. All in all, a very good dog.
I watched as they added the chuck and brisket into their meat grinder for what would soon become my double cheeseburger. It doesn’t get any fresher than this. The meat has just a slight external crispiness, sealing in the flavorful juices. Like the hot dog, the burgers come wrapped in paper which of course gives them added burger legitimacy.
Unlike the hot dog, the burger finds its appeal in simplicity. All you need is love. And love in the case of this double cheeseburger is simply mustard, ketchup, onions and outstanding house-made pickles.
Peaky Grinders’ double cheeseburger lands in the upper echelon of local burgers. Welcome to H-Town!